Mumbai Biryani, Mumbai

Closer to the Bombay Muslim kitchen than to Lucknow or Hyderabad: more masala, more potato, redder, and eaten late. The old-city version at Bhendi Bazaar and the suburban film-trade version at Bandra and Andheri are recognisably different from each other.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Lucky Restaurant1938	near Bandra station, Bandra West	The Bandra landmark. Always full, always late.
Shalimar Restaurant	Bhendi Bazaar	The old-city biryani house.
Delhi Darbar1971	Colaba and Grant Road	Mughlai and biryani, long-running.
Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar1970s	Byculla and Santacruz	Biryani in volume.
Noor Mohammadi Hotel1923	Bhendi Bazaar	Biryani alongside the nihari.
Persian Darbar	Bandra, Andheri, Lokhandwala	The suburban chain version.
Cafe Noorani1923	Haji Ali	Biryani and kebabs at the junction.
Bademiya1946	Colaba	Rolls and kebabs rather than biryani proper, but the late-night equivalent.

Worth knowing

• Late is correct. Most of these kitchens are at their best after ten at night.
• Potato in the biryani is normal in Mumbai and is not a shortcut.
• Ask for the kachchi version where it is offered; it is cooked with the raw meat in the pot.
• The old city and the suburbs cook it differently. Try both before deciding.

The other dishes

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