Chinese in Mumbai

Mumbai’s Chinese food runs on three lines that never quite merged. The oldest came with Cantonese families who settled around Mazgaon and Dockyard Road, and it survives in a handful of South Mumbai dining rooms that have not changed their menus in thirty years. The second is Indian-Chinese — the Manchurian, the Schezwan, the triple rice — invented in Kolkata and adapted here into a street and family-restaurant staple. The third arrived after 2000 as dim sum rooms in the hotels and the malls.

Chicken Manchurian was invented in this city in 1975 by a Kolkata-born Hakka chef named Nelson Wang, who later opened China Garden at Kemps Corner. That one dish is now on more Indian menus than almost any other.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Ling’s Pavilion1991	Mahakavi Bhushan Marg, behind Regal Cinema, Colaba	Cantonese. Corn curd, steamed prawn wontons in burnt garlic, spare ribs in black bean, claypot rice. You cross a bridge over a carp pool to reach the dining room.
Golden Dragon1974	The Taj Mahal Palace, Apollo Bunder, Colaba	Sichuan. One of the first fine-dining Chinese rooms in India; the date pancakes are ordered by people who have come for forty years.
China Garden1984	Om Chambers, Kemps Corner	Nelson Wang’s restaurant — the chef credited with inventing chicken Manchurian.
Kamling1960s	Veer Nariman Road, Churchgate	Plain Cantonese. Wonton soup, chilli garlic prawns, crab. No decor, no music, the same menu for sixty years.
Royal China	Sterling Cinema lane, Fort	Dim sum. The Sunday service is the one people book ahead for.
Flora Restaurant	Fort	Everyday Indian-Chinese for the Fort office lunch trade.
Cusrow Baug Asian kitchens	Shahid Bhagat Singh Road, Colaba	Small rooms carrying Chinese, Thai and Japanese on one menu.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Royal China	Lower Parel	The larger of the two rooms; dim sum and Cantonese.
Shizusan Shophouse & Bar	Palladium, Lower Parel	Pan-Chinese and Southeast Asian in a shophouse format.
Pa Pa Ya	Palladium, Lower Parel	Modern Asian; sushi, dim sum and Chinese mains on one menu.
Mainland China	Worli and Lower Parel	The Speciality Restaurants chain; consistent Cantonese and Sichuan.
Hunan	Worli	Neighbourhood Chinese of the older, plainer kind.
Mill-compound Asian kitchens	Kamala Mills, Todi Mills	Bar-led Asian rooms; the tenancies change but the format holds.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Yauatcha	Raheja Towers, Bandra Kurla Complex	Cantonese dim sum with a patisserie counter; built for the BKC office lunch.
Foo	Bandra Kurla Complex	Asian small plates; the typhoon shelter dishes are the signature.
Hotel Chinese rooms	Trident BKC, Sofitel BKC, Jio World Centre	Largely hotel-based and priced for expense accounts.

Name	Where	What it is known for
House of Mandarin	Bandra West	Dim sum room from Rachel Goenka’s kitchen; chilli oil dumplings, mushroom dumplings with porcini cream.
The Fatty Bao	Hill Road, Bandra West	Asian gastro-bar; bao, dim sum and sushi rolls with a fusion turn.
Khow Chow	near National College, Bandra West	Chinese with Burmese khow suey and a fried ice cream made in-house.
5 Spice	Bandra West and Andheri	Late-night Indian-Chinese in large portions; a Bandra fixture.
Mainland China	Shalimar Morya Park, Off New Link Road, Andheri West	The Andheri room is the one the film trade uses.
China Gate	Link Road, opposite Infinity Mall, Andheri West	Large-format Indian-Chinese with a buffet.
Great World	Andheri West	Dim sum, noodles and stir-fries; a long-running Andheri address.
Mamagoto	Bandra West and Andheri	Casual Southeast Asian and Chinese.
Hakka counters	Linking Road, Lokhandwala, Versova	Manchurian, triple rice, chowmein — the everyday version, eaten standing.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Asia Kitchen	Oberoi Mall, Goregaon East	Pan-Asian with a strong Chinese section; booked out at weekends.
Mainland China	Infiniti Mall, Malad West	The northern-suburb outlet.
Vegetarian Indian-Chinese kitchens	Borivali, Kandivali, Malad, Goregaon	Pure vegetarian and Jain-adapted Chinese — its own cooking, not a lesser version of anything.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Mainland China	City Park, Central Avenue, Hiranandani Gardens, Powai	Serves the IIT, the office parks and the hotels.
Asia Kitchen	Powai	Pan-Asian, same group, busy on weekday evenings.
Family Chinese kitchens	Chembur, Ghatkopar, Mulund	Long-standing neighbourhood rooms, mostly vegetarian Indian-Chinese.

What to order

• Corn curd, fried soft inside, at Ling’s Pavilion — nowhere else does it the same way
• Dim sum at Royal China on a Sunday, or Yauatcha at BKC on a weekday
• Chicken Manchurian at China Garden, where it was invented rather than copied
• Crab at Kamling, Churchgate — plain and unfussy, as since the 1960s
• Triple rice and chowmein at the Linking Road and Lokhandwala counters, eaten standing

Other cuisines

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