Italian in Mumbai

Italian is the foreign cuisine Mumbai adopted most completely. It arrived through the hotels in the 1990s, spread into neighbourhood restaurants, and finally produced something distinctly Indian: the pure-vegetarian Italian restaurant, which exists here in a way it does not in Italy.

Wood-fired ovens and imported cheese are now common enough that the gap between the hotel rooms and the street-level ones has narrowed considerably.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Vetro	The Oberoi, Nariman Point	Hotel Italian with an enoteca; one of the serious wine lists in the city.
Trattoria1970s	Vivanta President, Cuffe Parade	A long-running all-day Italian room; among the first in Mumbai.
Basilico2007	Colaba	Casual Italian with a deli counter; all-day.
The Table2011	Colaba	Californian and modern European with Italian leanings; its own farm supplies produce.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Olive Bar & Kitchen2000	Mahalaxmi	Mediterranean and Italian; the Sunday brunch is a city fixture.
Cafe Zoe2012	Mathuradas Mills, Lower Parel	European and Italian in a converted mill shed.
Mill-compound Italian rooms	Kamala Mills, Todi Mills	Italian and European in the mill compounds; tenancies change.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Celini	Grand Hyatt, Santacruz East	Hotel Italian with an open kitchen and a wood oven.
Mezzo Mezzo	JW Marriott, Juhu	Italian on the Juhu hotel strip.
Little Italy1997	Juhu, Andheri, Lokhandwala	Pure-vegetarian Italian — a Mumbai format with a following of its own.
Salt Water Cafe2007	Bandra West	All-day European and Italian.
Olive Bar & Kitchen	Khar West	The suburban Olive.
Independent pizzerias	Bandra, Khar, Andheri	Wood-fired independents, several with imported flour and cheese.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Mall Italian and vegetarian pizzerias	Malad, Goregaon, Borivali	Vegetarian and Jain-adapted Italian is the norm this far north.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Powai Italian rooms	Hiranandani Gardens, Powai	Serving the office parks and the hotels.

What to order

• Risotto and handmade pasta at Vetro, with one of the city’s better wine lists
• Sunday brunch at Olive, Mahalaxmi — an institution in its own right
• A wood-fired pizza at Celini or Basilico
• Pure-vegetarian Italian at Little Italy — worth understanding on its own terms

Other cuisines

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