Mumbai biryani is its own thing — closer to the Bombay Muslim kitchen than to Lucknow or Hyderabad, usually eaten late and usually standing. The centre of gravity is Bhendi Bazaar and Mohammed Ali Road, where several kitchens date to the 1920s. The suburbs have their own version, built around the film industry’s night hours.
Ramzan is when this food is at its best: the streets around Minara Masjid stay open past midnight for the whole month, and dishes appear that are not cooked at any other time of year.
South Mumbai
Colaba · Fort · Ballard Estate · Churchgate · Kala Ghoda · Nariman Point · Kemps Corner| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Noor Mohammadi Hotel1923 | Chowk Bazaar, Bhendi Bazaar | Nalli nihari, chicken sanju baba, kheema. One of the oldest Muslim kitchens in the city. |
| Shalimar Restaurant | Bhendi Bazaar | Mughlai and biryani; the Bhendi Bazaar landmark. |
| Bademiya1946 | Tulloch Road, behind the Taj, Colaba | Began as a pavement kebab stall; baida roti, seekh kebab, rolls, after eleven at night. |
| Sarvi Restaurant1921 | Nagpada | Seekh kebab, bheja, khiri. Plain room, no concessions. |
| Delhi Darbar1971 | Colaba and Grant Road | Mughlai and biryani; long-running and consistent. |
| Cafe Noorani1923 | Haji Ali junction | Kebabs, biryani and rolls at a junction everyone passes. |
| Bohri Mohalla kitchens | Bhendi Bazaar | Smoked kheema, raan, bara handi; at their best during Ramzan. |
| Surti Bara Handi | Bohri Mohalla | Twelve pots of slow-cooked trotters and offal, served from midnight. |
| Minara Masjid lane | Mohammed Ali Road | Not a restaurant — the street itself, which becomes the city’s biggest kitchen for one month a year. |
Central Mumbai
Lower Parel · Worli · Prabhadevi · Dadar · Mahalaxmi · Byculla · Matunga| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar1970s | Byculla | Biryani in volume; a Byculla name. |
| Madanpura kitchens | Madanpura, Byculla | Everyday Mughlai away from the crowds and the guidebooks. |
| Nagpada and Agripada rooms | Nagpada, Agripada | Kebab and biryani kitchens serving the neighbourhood. |
Western Suburbs
Bandra · Khar · Santacruz · Vile Parle · Juhu · Andheri · Versova| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Lucky Restaurant1938 | near Bandra station, Bandra West | Biryani and Mughlai; a Bandra landmark, always full. |
| Persian Darbar | Bandra West, Andheri, Lokhandwala | Kebabs, biryani and Irani-style grills across the suburbs. |
| Jaffer Bhai’s Delhi Darbar | Andheri and Santacruz | The suburban outlets. |
| Andheri and Jogeshwari biryani houses | Andheri East, Jogeshwari | Late-night kitchens serving the film and airport trades. |
| Ramzan stalls | Bandra Hill Road, Kurla | Stalls that appear for one month and vanish. |
Eastern Suburbs
Powai · Chembur · Ghatkopar · Vikhroli · Bhandup · Mulund| Name | Where | What it is known for |
|---|---|---|
| Kurla and Chembur biryani houses | Kurla, Chembur, Govandi | Neighbourhood biryani, largely unlisted. |
What to order
- Nalli nihari at Noor Mohammadi, eaten in the morning as it is meant to be
- Chicken sanju baba at Noor Mohammadi — named for the actor who asked for it
- Seekh kebab at Sarvi, Nagpada, from a kitchen running since 1921
- Baida roti and kebab rolls at Bademiya, after eleven at night
- Bara handi at Bohri Mohalla — twelve pots of slow-cooked trotters, only in the old city
- Malpua and firni on Mohammed Ali Road during Ramzan
Other cuisines
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