European & Continental in Mumbai

Two different things go by ‘Continental’ in Mumbai. One is the genuine European bistro, a recent arrival concentrated in Kala Ghoda, Colaba and Bandra. The other is the older Bombay Continental menu — roast chicken, fish meuniere, caramel custard, chicken a la Kiev — which club kitchens and Irani restaurants have served since the 1940s.

That second menu is now a local cuisine in its own right, whatever its origins, and the clubs cook it better than anyone. It is worth seeking out before it disappears.

Name	Where	What it is known for
The Table2011	Colaba	Californian and modern European; produce from the restaurant’s own farm.
Woodside Inn2008	Colaba, opposite Regal	A pub kitchen doing European comfort food and craft beer.
Indigo Delicatessen2006	Colaba and city-wide	All-day deli and European plates; the original Colaba room set the format.
Gaylord1956	Churchgate	Continental and North Indian; the old Bombay menu, done properly.
Cafe Universal1921	Fort	Irani-Continental; beer, roasts, marble tables.
Leopold Cafe1871	Colaba Causeway	Now as much a landmark as a restaurant.
Club dining rooms	Fort, Churchgate, Colaba	The Willingdon, the Bombay Gymkhana, the CCI and the Ripon Club all cook the old Continental menu.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Slink & Bardot2016	Worli Village	French, small room, seasonal menu.
Cafe Zoe2012	Lower Parel	European bistro in a mill compound.
Olive Bar & Kitchen2000	Mahalaxmi	Mediterranean and European; the brunch is the draw.

Name	Where	What it is known for
Suzette2009	Bandra West and BKC	Creperie and French cafe food.
Salt Water Cafe2007	Bandra West	All-day European.
Candies1989	Pali Hill, Bandra West	Sandwiches, bakes and Continental plates in a rambling Bandra house.
Hotel European rooms	Juhu, Andheri East	Continental dining inside the airport-belt hotels.

What to order

• The old Continental menu at an Irani cafe — roast chicken, caramel custard, unchanged since 1950
• A French breakfast at Suzette, Bandra
• Sunday roast at Woodside Inn, Colaba
• Steak, remembering that beef is not served in Maharashtra

Other cuisines

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